It’s Christmas Eve and in this episode I’ll be bringing in the evergreens, as tradition dictates, burning the Yule log in the fireplaces of my old home, and getting organised for tomorrow – making the gravies, cooking a parsnip loaf, and whipping up some brandy butter. We open our presents, and I’ll talk you through my recipe for a hot-smoked fish and leek pie – my unshakeable habit of making a fish dish on Christmas Eve has never wavered – and a good, nicely balanced brandy butter to effortlessly melt into your steaming pudding tomorrow evening.

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